Stefano Pilati’s appointment to Ermenegildo Zegna sees a return for the designer to the realm of luxury Italian menswear where he had actually began his career years ago as a fabric boy at Cerruti. And while Pilati has always been one of the most cosmopolitan designers out there, his personal love for fine Italian dressing, in the tradition of the finest clothes makers like Cerruti, Armani, and Zegna, are apparent in the menswear collections he developed for Yves Saint Laurent. Those collections would never get the amount of attention his women’s line received but a quick look back reveals an incredible depth and richness; an elaborate vision of dressing that reaches for beyond the mystique of Saint Laurent and speaks directly to Pilati’s own incredible talent. His is an understanding of luxury and fabrics, of the subtle nuance of feminine and masculine ambivalence which, when understood and implemented correctly, can saturate a thing with pure desire. And now he’s been handed one of Italy’s most venerable men’s wear institutions, rich in the sartorial language that Pilati has mastered and subverted. And if Zegna was never before on the radar of the fashion folks, it should be now.