Expanses, 2011

 Central St. Martins MA collections by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, Rejina Pyo, Helen Bullock, Daniel Lee, Yeori Bae, Bethan Silverwood, Shaun Samson, Sasu Kauppi, and Maarten Van Der Horst

The graduating class of Central St. Martin’s 2011 MA program continued with their predecessor’s exploration of obscuring and abstracting the figure. A characteristic in most of the student’s collections; the clothes sat away from the body for both and men and women with little to no delineation of the anatomy underneath — employing graphic contrast and juxtaposition of material to suggest any kind of form beyond the edges of the expansive silhouettes. What was different from last year was the move away from the matte and flat surfaces; they pursued ornamentation and embellishment in the fabrics and appliqués. Vivid colors and textured fabrics added a palatable richness, and the healthy pop of kitsch could even make you smile. You could call the whole effect a new kind of modesty, rooted in a new take on world dress. As novel as some of these ideas are, they don’t make for clothes geared towards the conspicuous consumer, they aren’t paying homage to any tired idea of fashion that could be so easily put on display — they are genuinely too new to give that kind of satisfaction.

 

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