Raf Simons, 1995

Boys, not men — menswear completely beyond the motivations of a Bruce Weber/Herb Ritts fantasy. Raf Simons’ first menswear collection was also one of the first men’s fashion collections to suggest an alternative to the ostentatious, aesthetically insensitive, athletically obtuse, and inflated masculinity that defined men’s fashion in the previous decade. Reality was the motivation and Simons was inspired by the fellows he knew and saw on the street — an outsiders’s perspective and a youthful angst echoed in bands like New Order and The Manic Street Preachers, very different heroes from sports stars and hollywood heartthrobs. So real and personal was Simons’s vision that it was in fact subersive in a world of shiny plastic shells of men.

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