DOLCE & GABANNA, 1991

Excerpt from “Clothes for Fall Soothe Rather Than Shock”

By Bernadine Morris

Too much sobriety can be numbing, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana made sure this didn’t happen. The principals in Dolce & Gabbana turned fashion inside out.

They gave corsets, panty girdles and bras new meaning as outerwear. These were paved in rhinestones and big multicolored stones or were made of fabric that looked like Jackson Pollock had dribbled paint on them.

The corsets were decorated with skating skirts made of black fox tails or layers of chiffon. They were sheltered by ostrich boas or fake leopard capes and for the new propriety were worn over black tights and had turtleneck tops.

Bracelets of colored stones climbed up the arms. Hadn’t Madonna and Jean-Paul Gaultier showed the way? Not for an entire collection. Where do you wear these things? Late-night clubs or swimming pools, of course. Are these clothes for liberated women or for sex objects? Topic for a seminar. Either way, the show provided a break in a serious season.

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